Sewing

burda plus spring 2004 pegged knit skirt Burda Plus Spring 2003 stretch woven pull on pants Kwik Sew 2565 kwik sew 3055 New Look 6959
Burda Plus Spring 2004 pegged straight skirt for knit fabrics Burda Plus Spring 2003 pants
in stretch fabric
KS 2565 Kwik Sew 3055 New Look 6959 OOP Burda 8841 OOP?

I spent the weekend cutting out 3 yards of a blue and brown print 100% polyester knit with one fuzzy surface (right side) and a smooth, almost buttery, surface. I managed to cut out

  1. BurdaPlus pegged skirt: I added a seam allowance of 1.5 inches. That gives me an extra 5 inches to play with. The pattern pieces pinfit okay; I seemed to need only 1/4 inch extra for the front, but the patternease tracing paper is stiff, and the knit fabric I’m using is very soft. My hunch is that without extra ease, the fabric will mold itself to every lump and bump.
  2. KS 2565 t-shirt: I lowered the dart 1/2 inch before cutting. Tweak it here; tweak it there; will it ever fit perfectly?
  3. KS 3055 long sleeved t-shirt: DD wore the other one I made last week, and the sleeves were long, so I shortened them about 1/2 inch.
  4. NL 6959 skirt: I had to trace the pattern, first. I was hoping to get 2 skirts for her out of the last 14 inches, but she’s getting bigger, and I could only cut one.
  5. Burda 8841 – 2 t-shirts and 1 pair of shorts: It seems all doll clothes patterns are printed single size. I thought it was something Sewing For Dummies did to make things easier. I didn’t trace the patterns, since they are single size, and I’m not going to alter them. I tried to get 1 t-shirt, 1 pair of shorts, and 1 dress out of the scraps, but I didn’t have enough for the skirt. The bodice for the dress uses the same front as the t-shirt only shorter, so the babies will have one regular t-shirt and one cropped t-shirt.

Machine Embroidery

No sewing today. I had a class, tho. I signed up for the Artista embroidery class at Dublin Sewing Center. The class had been taught by 2 teachers, Kathy and Lisa. Kathy had to quit teaching, so, fortunately for us, Pat stepped in to replace her. They changed the format of the class. We had been making samples every class. Now, we will be alternating between learning about the software and learning about how to use our machines to embroider.

This month we learned how to oil our machines and all about stablizers. The store gave us 25 different samples, and we talked about each one. It was very informative. Of course, I ended up getting a roll of the water-soluable paper like stablizer.

Burda Plus Magazine French Dart T-shirt

I retook the picture. The camera is looking up at me, so it’s not the best angle, but I did get the timer to work. The t-shirt isn’t that bad. It’s just not as good as Kwik Sew 2565 on me. FrenchDart

On the left is another image with the t-shirt tucked in.
burdaPants2


After having worn the top, I decided it was better than New Look 6143 but not as good as Kwik Sew 2565. See Pattern Sizing for comments on fit.

Oh, and I decided the funneling neckline wasn’t that bad.


Pattern Description: A yoked, french dart T-shirt in plus sizes.Burda Plus Spring 2004 French Dart T-shirt

Pattern Sizing:
Burda 44-52. I made a 46, had to add 1 inch to the bust width, and it’s very roomy. I’d say it runs large, but perhaps it is supposed to have lots of ease.

UPDATE: The top does run big. It slides off my shoulder; you know the feeling: “the neckline is cutting into your neck and one bra stap is showing” feeling. I should have trusted my judgement when I was altering the pattern; usually I have to add 2-3 inches for the bust dart. In this case, I only had to add 1 inch, and I think that difference should have clued me into the large shoulders and large back. I recommend cutting a size smaller.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?burda plus spring 2004 french dart t-shirt line drawing
For all that the model is slender with a small bust and I am about 60 pounds overweight with a very large bust, the model and I looked almost exactly the same, shapewise, in the tshirt.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I think I followed the instructions. It’s a t-shirt, so at a certain point, I used my experience, not the directions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I wanted to make this t-shirt because I was curious about the french dart. I thought it might be a way for me to get more shaping in a shirt, but still have room for my hips. My breasts are so large, that if I don’t do something to pull things in at the waist, I look much, much heavier than I am.

I think the t-shirt runs large. When I was tissue fitting, I only had to add 1 inch to the width. I usually add 2-3 inches. However, the shoulders fit well. Perhaps, I just don’t like all the ease that is present in plus designs. I don’t usually make plus designs because when I look at the pictures, they have so much ease they look like shapeless sacks to me.

So while I’m still intrigued by french darts, this particular design is not my favorite.

The french dart was very easy to alter.

I think I used a 1/4 inch seam allowance (I was sewing a Kwik Sew tshirt with this one) on the neckline instead of the 5/8 inch that I put in the pattern pieces. The neckline funnels up. I decided to leave it like that. Uh, I mean, of course, I deliberately changed the design to have a funnel neck.

Fabric Used:
More of that pink with blue flowers print in cotton lycra knit. I was told it was a swimsuit fabric when I bought it several years ago to make a nursing top.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I increased the french dart to have room for the gigantic ones, and I left off the yoke.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t think I’ll make it again. I like my Kwik Sew 2565 t-shirt. I might take the neckline (w/o the funnel effect) and the yoke and make a KS2565 with those changes.

Conclusion
An intriguing dart option that didn’t do what I was hoping for, but the shirt did come out looking almost exactly like the one in the picture, so I’m not sure why I expected something else.

Kwik Sew 3055 (Girl’s T-shirts)

Pattern Description: kwik sew 3055
The Girls’ Tops are designed for stretch knits only with 25% stretch across the grain. Kwik Sew suggests interlock, textured knits, stretch velour, pointelle jersey or thermal knits. The pullover top has a neckline finished with self fabric binding. View A has long flared sleeves, View B has short sleeves, the bottom edges of the tops and sleeves can be hemmed or finished with lettuce edging.

I made both the long sleeve and short sleeve versions.

Pattern Sizing:
Girls 4-7. I made a size 4 based on DD’s height. It seems to fit. She’s very slight.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I didn’t do the lettuce edging.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn’t follow them. I’ve made a lot of t-shirts, and I used the same methods on this one that I would use on a t-shirt for me.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKE: The pattern is streamlined. No extra marking.
LIKE: The pieces fit well together.
LIKE: The 1/4 inch seam allowance is wonderful with my serger.
LIKE: The heavy paper that the original pattern is printed on. It’s well printed and easy to trace.
LIKE: The bell sleeves are very trendy right now.

Fabric Used:
A pink with blue flowers, cotton lycra knit, print that has been aging in my stash for at least 2 years.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t follow the cutting instructions. I wanted to use up the 33 inches of this knit (60 inches wide) on 3 t-shirts, so I squeezed things in. I was able to cut, in size 4, one short sleeve t-shirt, one long sleeve tshirt, and one tank top from another pattern.

I used a glitter blue fold over elastic on the short sleeve t-shirt. DH likes the neckband better. DD hasn’t commented.

I used the regular hem on the sleeves.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I plan on making DD several more tshirts this spring.

Kwik Sew tshirt patterns are excellent patterns, and I recommend all of them.

Conclusion
Quick, easy, great results.

Sewing

burda plus spring 2004 pegged knit skirt
Burda Plus Spring 2004 pegged
straight skirt for knit fabrics

Burda Plus Spring 2003 stretch woven pull on pants

Burda Plus Spring 2003 pants in stretch fabric

I had traced these pants last spring in a size 50 which is now a size too big. However, since they are pants, I decided to go ahead and add the seam allowances and pin fit them in this size. We’ll see. If they truly are too big, I can retrace them in a 48. I plan on using a solid blue cotton/lycra knit.

I traced the skirt in a size 48. I love straight skirts. This one is very pegged. I’m not sure how I feel about that. We’ll see. I have 2 fabrics pulled. The blue cotton/lycra mentionned above, and a blue & brown print polyester knit. It has a fuzzy surface. I don’t know the name of this sort of knit.

Pants from k.p. kids & co (Little Sprouts’ Wardrobe)

Pattern Description: kpkids
Very cute toddler clothing. I made the pants.

Pattern Sizing:
Labeled as 6 months – 4T, but they don’t give measurements. They do say in the patterns that the sizing is one size larger than rtw. I made the 12 months size, and it fits my size 18 mo to size 2T son very well. They never fit my daughter who is very, very thin.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I left off the cuffs and used 2 fabrics for the side shown. The pants are reversible.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I made these 3 years ago, so I don’t recall details except:
1. It was easy to do the back pockets, and I had not placed patch pockets on any sort of garment.

2. I did something wrong when making the pants. They are supposed to be revesible without snaps. Mine aren’t. That is, I made mine (accidentally) to be reversible using snaps on the legs for diaper access. So the inner leg seam was finished before sewing the legs together. My hunch is that I misread the instructions. I’m dyslexic, and I was a beginner clothing sewer at the time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKE: The clothing comes out so very cute.

DISLIKE: There isn’t anything that I dislike about this pattern. I haven’t made the pants again, but I love the vest and have made it many times.

Fabric Used:
Cotton broadcloth scraps left over from making nursing tops.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
Well, the happy accident of the snaps for the inner thighs was a design change.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might make them again. They didn’t fit my daughter, but they fit my son.

I do recommend it because the clothing comes out so cute, and like I said above, I absolutely love the vest pattern.

Conclusion
Fun, cute clothing for babies and toddlers.

T-shirts

Kwik Sew 2565
KS 2565

Burda Plus Spring 2004 French Dart T-shirtburda plus spring 2004 french dart t-shirt line drawing
Burda Plus Magazine 406A,
French Dart Tshirt

kwik sew 3055
Kwik Sew 3055

New Look 6959
New Look 6959 OOP

I finished serging all the seams. The only thing left to do is hem. NL 6959 tank top is completed. I tried coverstitch in the round using Bryden’s instructions for ending the coverstitch. It worked wonderfully. I did have some trouble going over the seams. The Elna 744 really doesn’t handle bulk very well during coverstitch. I tried on the t-shirts. The bigger sleeve makes a huge difference in the KwikSew tshirt. I’m not thrilled with the Burda Plus tshirt. I’m not sure why. It came out looking almost exactly like the one in the magazine. I was hoping that it looked big and sacklike on the model because she wasn’t a plus sized model and that while I filled out the shirt more than the model, the french darts would give me some shaping and definition at the waist. The KS t-shirt is much more flattering. I, probably, should follow Sherril’s example, and stick with the tried and true pattern. I like trying new patterns, tho. I wonder what would happen if I put the french darts in the KS tshirt?

Simplicity 7071 (Sewing for Dummies DollClothes)

UPDATE: 4/2004, I added a picture. The overalls are kinda hard to see. They were made for a larger baby, but DD had her own ideas about who gets to wear them.dollClothes
Pattern Description:
Baby doll overalls, shorts, tshirt, jammies, dress, and panties. I made the overalls.

Pattern Sizing:
For dolls 12″ (30 cm) to 22″ (56 cm). I made a medium (16″-18″ or 41cm – 46cm) for DD’s Bitty Baby, but we ended up putting them on another baby, 16″ tall. They fit fine.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
They did, except that I left off the leg elastic.

Were the instructions easy to follow?Simplicity 7071
Sewing for Dummies patterns have excellent instructions. At a certain point, I stopped reading them; they were rather tedious because of the amount of detail. However, for a rank beginner, this is a good thing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
DISLIKE: The bodice top, front and back, was all one piece which meant that it required a fairly large piece of fabric. IMHO, doll clothes should be made from scraps.

LIKE: One seam pants.

LIKE: It’s a multisized pattern, but each size is totally separate. So even tho I want to make the same item in every size, I don’t have to trace anything. I might trace it at a later date if I decide I’ll be churning out the doll clothes.

Fabric Used:
Fabric scraps from a brown, zebra striped stretch poly twill.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut one back off the bodice at the shoulder and added seam allowance to both pieces. I cut the front bodice pattern piece in half, and cut the front bodice on the fold.

If I use a bottomweight fabric again for these, I will use a “lining” fabric for the bodice lining. It was kinda thick, 2 layers of twill, for turning thru the shoulder.

I left the leg elastic off. The lower leg ruffle looks so fussy to me. The pants legs are a little long, but Baby doesn’t care.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Sure. Baby is very happy with her new overalls. I’ll have to make it again. The other babies are jealous.

Conclusion
Excellent instructions, easy to sew.

T-shirts

Kwik Sew 2565
KS 2565

Burda Plus Magazine 406A,
French Dart Tshirt

kwik sew 3055
Kwik Sew 3055

New Look 6959
New Look 6959 OOP

I finished hemming the sleeves on all of these. They are ready for the last bit of serging. Next time, I’m going to coverstitch in the round. I belong to the Elna Serger Mailing List. Bryden posted these instructions for finishing off the coverstitch:

finishing coverstitch –
stop and make sure the needles are at the highest position, raise the presser foot, and pressing the tension release hook your allen key (the thingy you tighten the needles up with) behind the threads (under the foot) and hook them towards you – cut through the threads and then remove your work to the back of the machine. This pulls the needle threads through to the reverse of your work ready to tie off

It works marvelously.

I put the FOE on KS 3055. It was easier and less visible to use a small zigzag than the narrow coverstitch.

I think I know why the neckline on the french dart t-shirt is funneling. I bet I used a 1/4 inch seam allowance, instead of the 5/8 inch seam allowance. I decided to make all these tshirts for 2 reasons. First, to get the pink with blue flowers cotton/lycra knit out of my stash. Second, if I made them all at the same time, I wouldn’t be rethreading the serger and sewing machine for each tshirt. Also, an assembly line process is faster. However, the Kwik Sew patterns all have 1/4 seam allowances, I put a 5/8 inch seam allowance on the Burda Plus T-shirt in case I needed to let it out, and the New Look tank has an easy to confuse mix of 5/8 seam allowances and 3/8 hem allowances. I sew at night. It’s the only time I have free when I don’t have a child hanging on me, so I’m tired. It’s easy to make mistakes, like putting the waistband on wrong on KS 2788. At least, this mistake is easily fixed. I’m still not sure what I’m going to do about that skirt.

Elizabeth Lee Sunrise Designs> 294 (Playtime)

Pattern Description: sunrise designs 294
Dance clothing for little girls, and some barbie clothing. I made the capri length dance pants (view 5) and the tank top (view 2).

Pattern Sizing:
2T – 8. They offer both 4T and 4. I made 4s for my daughter based on her measurements, and they fit well enough. The pattern calls for fabric with 100% stretch, and I wonder if the pants are supposed to have negative ease. They do not on my daughter because she is very, very thin.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I think my daughter has my short front crotch length and small waist. She’s jumping in the picture (are the ever awake and still? ). The small waist is easy to compensate for when inserting the elastic. These were a toile to get the crotch length right.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn’t follow the instructions. The top and pants are both 1 piece patterns.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
DISLIKE: The pattern calls for fabric with 100% stretch in all directions. PUL-EEZE, where can you find fabric like that? And why would the tank top need that much stretch?

DISLIKE: The instructions tell you to stretch the seams at least 40% during construction or you will get popped seams. Huh? I don’t do that on swimsuits. It would lead to wavy edges. I used the stretch 4-thread overlock stitch on my serger during construction, a regular coverstitch to hem, and a small zigzag to sew the elastic in.

LIKE: With only 2 pattern pieces, it’s a breeze to finish these.

Fabric Used:
I used a burn-out panne from Joann’s. It was leftover after making a couple of tshirts for me. It doesn’t have enough stretch for dance pants. But these were toiles to see if DD liked the idea. I have dance/skate fabric & swimsuit fabric to make her more.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I didn’t make any, but next time, I will shorten the front crotch length.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Because I have the pattern, I will make it again. Maybe not. I said this about a Stretch & Sew swimsuit that I wasn’t thrilled with instruction-wise. I never made it again. Instead I bought some Kwik Sew patterns.

I don’t recommend it. It’s an expensive pattern, and I don’t like the instructions. I think Kwik Sew does a better job.

Conclusion
Sure it’s quick and easy for an intermediate/advanced sewer, but I dislike the instructions. I think it would be frustrating for a beginner. I think you can find better patterns for girls dancewear for less money.