MCCALL’S 3085 (PALAZZO PANTS) REVIEW

outfit2I love these pants for dressy occasions.

Pattern Description: 
Wide leg and straight leg pants are featured in this pattern with either elastic or drawstring waist. I made the wide leg/palazzo pants with drawstring waist. It’s out of print, but you know, any pair of palazzo pants with a side seam should be similar. There’s not much to them.

Pattern Sizing:
L-XL. Unfortunately, I don’t have the pattern in front of me, and I can’t find size information at the McCalls website. I made the XL. My tummy is 48 inches, and my hips are 46. The XL fits fine.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Pretty much. The model is a young slender woman, and I’m a portly, middle aged woman. So allowing for that, our pants are identical.

3085Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I found it odd that they had me ease stitch the waist of the pants before applying the waistband. The waistband is an elastic waistband. Why not just cut a waistband big enough to go around the pants. It’s got a side seam, so even 39 inch fabric is plenty big for a waistband the same size as the pants.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I’m searching for a full pair of pants for work. I have big thighs, and I sit all day. I want my pants to have ample room for my thighs. This is the 3rd pattern I’ve tried like this. I like the full pants from No Time to Sew, but they don’t have pockets. I kinda like the Thalia pants, but they have front pleats, so it’s a lot harder for me to get the front crotch length right, and the back crotch is drafted for a flat butt. I have a protruding butt. Also, the waistband is 1/2 elastic, 1/2 fitted, and so wide that it folds over.

LIKE: The pants have pockets.

LIKE: The pants are very full, so fitting is simply a matter of getting the crotch length right, and you do that after the pants are assembled. There are no darts or pleats. Well, except if you are exceptionally long in the crotch.

LIKE: The pants are long enough for me. However, because the legs are so straight, it would be an easy matter to shorten or lengthen the pants.

DISLIKE: The waistband is smaller than the waist of the pants, so you have to ease the pants to the waistband. Next time, I will cut the waistband AFTER the pants are finished. Sandra Betzina recommends this for waistbands.

DISLIKE: The patterns has zero reinforcement information/instruction for the pockets.

DISLIKE: The pockets add bulk at the hips. But the thing that I like best about this pattern is the pockets, so it’s a quandry.

Fabric Used:

A fine weave silk pique in grey. I think the fabric was sandwashed. It’s very drapey, which is a must for these pants.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

I shortened the front crotch 2 inches and the side 1 inch, tapering to zero at center back, after I assembled the pants. I altered the pattern to take this into account for the next pair.

Make sure you do something to mark the back. It’s easy for me because the front is so much shorter than the back. But adding a bit of ribbon to the centerback seam would do the trick.

I didn’t clip the seams at the pockets; perhaps this is the cause of the extra bulk? Next time, I’m going to look into reinforcing the pockets with a bit of interfacing and maybe some topstitching. I’m not sure about this because the pockets add bulk, and I’m not sure what interfacing would do. But like I said, the thing I like best about this pattern is the pockets.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I plan on making them again. They are very easy. They have pockets. They are comfortable. They are great for my work.

Conclusion

A very simple pattern, quick and easy, for a dressy-ish pair of pants for the job.

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