Step 1:Sew the fronts together.
Usually, a pattern is marked where the pattern designer recommends that you stop the zipper or end the fly. Because I often take 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) out of the front crotch curve, I end up with a really short fly. I extend it down an inch. Where ever this point is, I’m calling it the bottom of the zipper.
From the bottom of the zipper down, you want to sew with a regular stitch. From the bottom of the zipper and up, you want to use a basting stitch. Sorry that I forgot to take pictures at that point.
Pants on table, wrong side up. Fold
both fronts to the left, leaving one
extension pointing to the right. Pin
zipper in place, with side lining up
to center front. You will be sewing
the side furthest from center front.
Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the zipper
on the side sticking out from the pants fronts.
Turn zipper over. Fold the extra fabric down
under the zipper. The extra fabric may extend
under center front. Pin and stitch about 1/8
of an inch (1 mm) from zipper. This holds that
extra fabric in place.
Use zipper foot to stitch close to the zipper.
Flip pants so that pants fronts are both on
your right. They were on the left.
Turn zipper over. Make sure that it’s flat.
Pin zipper to the fly extension on your left.
Using a zipper foot, sew close to the zipper.
Now your zipper is attached to both fly extensions,
but no sewing shows on the front of the pants.
Turn pants over so
they are right side up.
Butt fly template against
the center front seam. If
you don’t have a fly template,
you can copy one from a
pair of pants.
Trace around fly template.
Pin pants front to the fly
Make sure everything is
nice and flat and smooth.
Using your usual foot, sew fly stitches in place.
I always start at the bottom. If I start at the
top, I tend to twist the fabric.
Hey, it looks like a fly!
Admire your fly.
Admire your fly some more.
But wait; something is missing!
Cut a piece of fabric 4×8 inches
(10 x 20 cm) for the fly shield.
Fold Fly Shield in half, wrong sides together.
Do you see the difference between the pressed
fly and the unpressed fly in step 21?
Overlock the edges of the fly shield. I cut off
some fabric from the bottom to form a curve.
The curve is optional. There’s nothing wrong
with a rectangular fly shield.
If you don’t have a serger, you can overlock
with your sewing machine. Use your overlock
foot and a zigzag stitch.
Pin your zipper shield to the
extention on the underlap
side of the fly.
Fold your pant fronts off to the side, so that
you only sew thru the fly shield and extension.
After you’ve sewn the side of the shield
to the extension, tack down the bottom
on the opposite extension. This is
optional, but it will keep your fly shield
from flopping around.
Admire your fly shield. Here you can see
where I tacked down the opposite side. I
sewed this shield twice along the side. I
don’t know what I was thinking the first
time, but I didn’t sew close to the edge.
Admire your fly from the wrong side.
Admire your fly from the right side.
Ta Da! No more steps.