Tutorial: Zipper Fly

Step 1:Sew the fronts together.
Usually, a pattern is marked where the pattern designer recommends that you stop the zipper or end the fly. Because I often take 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) out of the front crotch curve, I end up with a really short fly. I extend it down an inch. Where ever this point is, I’m calling it the bottom of the zipper.

From the bottom of the zipper down, you want to sew with a regular stitch. From the bottom of the zipper and up, you want to use a basting stitch. Sorry that I forgot to take pictures at that point.

Step 2
Zipper Fly Step 2
Pants on table, wrong side up. Fold
both fronts to the left, leaving one
extension pointing to the right. Pin
zipper in place, with side lining up
to center front. You will be sewing
the side furthest from center front.
Step 3
Zipper Fly Step 3
Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the zipper
on the side sticking out from the pants fronts.
Step 4:
Zipper Fly Step 4
Turn zipper over. Fold the extra fabric down
under the zipper. The extra fabric may extend
under center front. Pin and stitch about 1/8
of an inch (1 mm) from zipper. This holds that
extra fabric in place.
Step 5:
zipper fly step 5
Use zipper foot to stitch close to the zipper.
Step 6:
Zipper Fly step 6
Flip pants so that pants fronts are both on
your right. They were on the left.
Step 7:
Zipper Fly step 7
Turn zipper over. Make sure that it’s flat.
Step 8:
Zipper Fly Step 8
Pin zipper to the fly extension on your left.
Step 9:
Zipper Fly Step 9
Using a zipper foot, sew close to the zipper.
Step 10:
Zipper Fly Step 10
Now your zipper is attached to both fly extensions,
but no sewing shows on the front of the pants.
Step 11:
zipper Fly step 11
Turn pants over so
they are right side up.
Step 12:
Zipper Fly step 12
Butt fly template against
the center front seam. If
you don’t have a fly template,
you can copy one from a
pair of pants.
Step 13:
Zipper Fly Step 13
Trace around fly template.
Step 14:
Zipper Fly Step 14
Pin pants front to the fly
extension underneath.
Make sure everything is
nice and flat and smooth.
Step 15:
Zipper Fly Step 15
Using your usual foot, sew fly stitches in place.
I always start at the bottom. If I start at the
top, I tend to twist the fabric.
Step 16:
Zipper Fly Step 16
Hey, it looks like a fly!
Step 17:
Zipper Fly Step 17
Step 18:
Zipper Fly Step 18
Admire your fly.
Step 19:
Zipper Fly Step 19
Admire your fly some more.
But wait; something is missing!
Step 20:
Zipper Fly Step 20
Cut a piece of fabric 4×8 inches
(10 x 20 cm) for the fly shield.
Step 21:
Zipper Fly Step 21
Fold Fly Shield in half, wrong sides together.
Step 22:
Zipper Fly Step 22
Step 23:
Zipper Fly Step 23
Do you see the difference between the pressed
fly and the unpressed fly in step 21?
Step 24:
Zipper Fly Step 24
Overlock the edges of the fly shield. I cut off
some fabric from the bottom to form a curve.
The curve is optional. There’s nothing wrong
with a rectangular fly shield.

If you don’t have a serger, you can overlock
with your sewing machine. Use your overlock
foot and a zigzag stitch.

Step 25:
Zipper Fly step 25
Pin your zipper shield to the
extention on the underlap
side of the fly.
Step 26:
Zipper Fly Step 26
Fold your pant fronts off to the side, so that
you only sew thru the fly shield and extension.
Step 27:
Zipper Fly step 27
After you’ve sewn the side of the shield
to the extension, tack down the bottom
on the opposite extension. This is
optional, but it will keep your fly shield
from flopping around.
Step 28:
Zipper Fly step 28
Admire your fly shield. Here you can see
where I tacked down the opposite side. I
sewed this shield twice along the side. I
don’t know what I was thinking the first
time, but I didn’t sew close to the edge.
Step 29:
Zipper Fly step 29
Admire your fly from the wrong side.
Step 30:
Zipper Fly step 30
Admire your fly from the right side.

Ta Da! No more steps.