I’m working on a map of Jen & Rob.
Chorography (from χῶρος khōros, “place” and γράφειν graphein, “to write”) is the art of describing or mapping a region or district, and by extension such a description or map. This term derives from the writings of the ancient geographer Pomponius Mela and Ptolemy, where it meant the geographical description of regions. However, its resonances of meaning have varied at different times. Richard Helgerson states that “chorography defines itself by opposition to chronicle. It is the genre devoted to place, and chronicle is the genre devoted to time”. Darrell Rohl prefers a broad definition of “the representation of space or place”. [Wikipedia]
Our first assignment was to draw a compass rose, so here’s mine.
Places that I was thinking of doing a map of:
- My Garden
- The town I grew up in: Piedmont/Oakland
- The town I live in
but then I saw this image at one of Nate’s sites. Maybe I’ll do a map of the spaces of Jen & Rob.
My sewing room still looks like this, pretty much.
The design wall is constructed from 4 bulliten boards mounted on the wall. I covered the boards with a grey flannel fabric. The chest is mostly full of quiting cottons. Supposedly, I put the cutting table away, but since my daughter has taken over my worktable, I haven’t put the cutting table away.
The 2 cupboards contain fashion fabric and some gift wrapping supplies. In theory, when they are full, I stop buying fabric.
The wall cabinets have books, notions, and embellishments. About 2/3s of my patterns are in the tubs under the sewing cabinet. The tubs are the size larger than the shoebox size, and they fit sthe standard pattern very well. A large pattern envelope can lay flat in the boxes, and the ones with the high top lid can accomodate both at once. So far, these tubs are toddler proof.
My husband built the worktable. It’s 41 inches high. I love it. The cutting table is too low, and I get backaches if I’m working at it for extended periods of time. It will be nice when my son is more trustworthy, and I can move my daughter’s stuff off of this table and store things under it again.
My Bernina 1001 sewing machine and Elna 744 serger. I don’t recommend a sewing cabinet like mine. The machines must be available at all times if a busy women is going to be able to sew in 5 or 10 minute bursts. I do like the pnuematic lift under my sewing machine.
The wall mounted ironing board is wonderful when you have small children. I like the full length mirror, too. I secure my iron to the board with a bunge cord.
My Bernina 180E on a desk built by my husband. He bought a ready made countertop and screwed it to two old chestof drawers. This sewing cabinet is much more practical then the expensive fold-away one.
Accessory presser feet are standard equipment with sewing machines sold today, but how do you know which foot is best for which task?
Use the braid foot to add decorative cording to fabric using any kind of braid, cord or serger threads. Both the narrow and wide braid foot have a hook on front of the foot slip, and a narrow, tunneled groove underneath. The cord is laced through the hook and under the foot slip into the tunneled groove. A braid -guide attachment, a loopy wire that attaches near the presser foot shank, keeps the braid untangled and taut while stitching. Put stabilizer on the fabric to stiffen it before sewing the braid. Use a basic zigzag stitch to attach the braid to fabric. Use the braid foot when attaching string for gathering fabric. Zigzag-stitch the string onto fabric, then pull the string to gather the fabric.
The pin-tuck foot is a flat foot with grooves cut in the bottom. You’ve probably seen pin-tuck work on delicate, heirloom-type sewing, but it can also be used in contemporary designs. The pin-tuck foot, along with a double needle , pinches and stitches lines of fabric into narrow, raised patterns in the fabric . The number of patterns lines, and the spacing between the lines, depends on the number of grooves in the foot. Use a three-groove pin-tuck foot to accommodate heavier fabrics or to create wider designs. Four- and five-groove pin-tuck feet are better when used on lightweight fabrics or for creating more narrow patterns. Use a 1.6 to 2.0 twin needle with the pin-tuck foot.
For fabrics with obvious grain lines, trace a grain line at the desired point with a straight pin to create a straight-on-grain guide for stitching with the pin-tuck foot, or use a decorative-stitch pattern to achieve more elaborate designs. Adjust the width of the selected decorative-stitch pattern to the width of the stitch hole on the pin-tuck foot. To determine the needed width adjustment, slowly hand-walk the first pattern section of the stitching, watching very closely to be sure the needle falls inside the stitch area of
the pin tuck foot.
Narrow Bias Binder Foot
To apply purchased bias binding or hand-cut bias strips, use the narrow bias binding foot. The narrow bias binding foot is distinguishable by a cone-shaped, slotted cylinder situated on the top side of the foot. It applies the bias binding, folding and stitching it all in one step. Using bias that measures a ‘scant’ inch – just under an inch – thread the fabric into the cone shape on the binder foot before attaching the foot to the machine. Do this by clipping the end of the bias strip into a diagonal point to help feed it through the cone. Feed the bias strip into the cone, nudging the pointed end through the narrow end of the cone with a straight pin. Pull the pointed end of the strip through the hole on the foot plate. Attach the foot to the machine. Slide fabric into the center of the foot beside the cone, and sew using any desired stitch to attach the binding. The cone will feed and fold the bias strip to create perfect bindings.
The gathering foot is a small L-shaped foot with a slot on the bottom side of the foot. The bottom of the foot is higher at the front than in the back, causing the foot to rock when attached to the machine. The rocking motion creates instant gathers. Set the stitch length on a higher setting to get more gathers and on a normal setting to get fewer gathers. Lay the fabric underneath the foot to gather a single layer of fabric, or use the side slot to stitch one piece of fabric to another.
|Ruffler Foot||–||This large foot has many components; and is used to make
large ruffles and pleats.
|Eyelet Foot||–||This H-shaped flat foot has a small cylinder shape attached
to the top surface; it is used to create eyelet.
|Darning Foot||–||The featured darning foot was plastic and resembled a
standard foot except for a thin, wire attachment. This foot is
used for free-motion embroidery and free-motion quilting.
|Buttonhole Foot||–||The buttonhole foot is recognizable as a rectangular-shaped
foot with thin extensions at either end, a raised square on top
of the foot and small grooves on the bottom of the foot. This
foot creates buttonholes and also works well when sewing in
Presser Foot Identification Tip
Tape each presser foot to a scrap of fabric that has a sample of the work the foot does, then store the fabric scraps in plastic bags and display them in a notebook.
My notes from Sew Perfect Episode 418
Nina Milenius (Donovan)
Sewing Expert, Viking Sewing Machines Inc. / Husqvarna, Viking and White
3100 Viking Parkway
Westlake, OH 44145
Web site: www.husqvarnaviking.com